How to choose an evening gown colour

A practical guide to evening gown colour: undertones, occasions, seasons, photographs and dress codes, with examples from our New York Fashion Week evening looks.

Scarlet velvet evening gown on the runway at New York Fashion Week 2026

By Catherine Colubriale, couturier, designing in Sydney for more than 30 years · Updated 27 October 2026

Choose an evening gown colour by starting with the occasion and dress code, then holding fabric against your face in daylight to see which shades make your skin look fresh. Deep jewel tones, metallics and black suit most evening events. Colour rules are a guide only: the colour you feel confident in usually photographs best.

On our Bespoke page we put it simply: “Scarlet tulle, emerald silk, gold sequins. Couture is where colour comes alive.” Catherine’s travels across Italy, France, Lebanon, Hong Kong, Sweden, America and Canada taught her to embrace every culture, and the colours and textures she found there run through her evening work.

How do I find colours that suit my skin?

Stylists often talk about undertones: warm (golden or peachy), cool (pink or blue) and neutral. As general guidance, many people with warm undertones glow in gold, coral, warm red and olive, while cool undertones are often lifted by silver, sapphire, emerald, berry and true black. Neutral undertones can usually wear both.

This is a starting point, not a rule. Skin, hair, eye colour, makeup and lighting all change how a colour reads. The most reliable test is practical:

  • Hold a fabric sample under your chin, in natural light, without makeup if you can.
  • Look at your face, not the fabric. A good colour makes skin look even and eyes bright. A poor one shows shadows.
  • Compare two shades of the same colour. Often it is the shade, not the colour, that matters: a blue red against an orange red, or a yellow gold against a rose gold.

At a consultation we hold real silks and laces against you, which tells you far more than a screen.

Which colours work best for evening?

ColourMoodExample
ScarletBold, confident, celebratoryLook 6, Scarlet velvet, with pearl-chain body jewellery
GoldFestive, warm, catches lightLook 2, gold embroidery with an amethyst drape
Amethyst and purpleRich, regal, a little unexpectedThe pleated drape on Look 2
SilverCool, luminous, modernLook 4, a silver corset with a painterly gold hem
BlackClassic, dramatic, always appropriate at nightLook 8, black Chantilly lace over silk dupion
EmeraldDeep, elegant, flattering to many skin tonesA bespoke choice, in silk or velvet

Scarlet

Red is the boldest evening colour and reads clearly across a room. Velvet deepens it; satin brightens it. Keep accessories quiet and let the colour lead.

Gold and metallics

Gold and silver work in embroidery, lamé, sequins and metallic thread. They are festive and photograph well under evening light. Mixing metals, as in Look 4’s silver bodice with a gold hem, is perfectly acceptable when done with intent.

Amethyst

Purples sit between warm and cool and suit many people. Paired with gold, as on Look 2, they feel opulent without being heavy.

Black

Black is never wrong at night and lets texture do the work: lace, velvet, tiers and sheer layers. It is a safe choice for a wedding guest at an evening ceremony, although some cultures avoid it at celebrations, so check if unsure.

Emerald

Emerald is a jewel tone that suits many skin tones and photographs richly. It is a beautiful bespoke colour in silk, velvet or beading.

What colour should I wear for the occasion and dress code?

  • Black tie and galas: jewel tones, black, deep metallics. Formal colours suit formal shapes.
  • Red carpet: colour that stands out against a backdrop: scarlet, gold, emerald, or bold black.
  • Wedding guest: avoid white, ivory and very pale cream, and check whether the bridal party has a colour you should not match. Our wedding guest dress code guide covers this.
  • Engagement party: anything you love. Some brides choose white, others a colour. See what to wear to your engagement party.
  • School formal: a colour the student loves and feels comfortable in. Our school formal guide helps with the rest.
  • Mother of the bride or groom: ask the couple about their palette. Our mother of the bride page shows gold sequins and plum florals we have made.

Does the season change the colour?

Winter evenings in Australia suit deep, saturated colours in heavier fabrics: scarlet velvet, emerald, burgundy, black. Summer suits lighter fabrics in brighter or softer colours: coral, gold, sky blue, blush. These are traditions, not rules. A black organza works beautifully in summer, and a bright silk can lift a winter gala.

How do colours look in photographs?

Very bright neons and some greens can shift on camera, and pure white can lose detail under a flash. Mid to deep jewel tones, black with texture, and metallics with some depth tend to photograph well. Sequins and beading flash under direct light, which can look magical or busy depending on the photographer. If your event is professionally photographed, ask a friend to take a phone photo of you in the fabric with the flash on before you decide.

To see these colours in real fabric, explore our Evening Couture Collection or a bespoke evening gown, and book a consultation to try them against your skin.

Questions

What is the most flattering evening gown colour?

There is no single answer. Jewel tones such as emerald, sapphire and deep red suit many people, and black works for most. The best test is holding fabric against your face in daylight.

Can I wear black to an evening wedding?

In most Australian weddings black is accepted for evening. Some cultures and families avoid black at celebrations, so ask the hosts if you are unsure.

Can I mix gold and silver?

Yes. Mixing metals works when it looks deliberate, as in our silver organza look with a painterly gold hem.

Can I choose any colour for a bespoke evening gown?

Yes. A bespoke gown is designed with Catherine from a blank page, and we source the fabric in the colour that suits you.

Do the collection gowns come in other colours?

Collection gowns are made to order to your measurements. Ask at your consultation about what is possible, or choose a bespoke gown for a colour of your own.

A bride in her bespoke ruffled Catherine Colubriale gown on a staircase

Book a bespoke appointment

Your bespoke gown begins with a conversation in our Dulwich Hill atelier. Tell us a little about your occasion and we’ll be in touch to arrange a time.

Your private consultation is $150, credited in full to your gown. You’ll confirm it on the next step, and your details stay private.

Prefer to talk? Call +61 2 9922 4193 or text +61 417 681 217.

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