A princess or ball gown wedding dress has a fitted bodice and a full skirt that begins at the waist and is held out by structure underneath. It is the most dramatic silhouette in bridal. It suits brides who want a grand entrance, and it needs a venue with room for the skirt.
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What is a princess wedding dress?
“Princess” and “ball gown” are used almost interchangeably. Both have a fitted bodice and a skirt with volume. The differences come from the details: where the waist sits, the neckline, and how full the skirt is. Four of our brides show how different one silhouette can look.
- Lia wore thirty metres of duchess silk satin, with layered peplums finished in fur for a warm winter feel, a crystal-set belt and heart-shaped cut-out at the back, and a beaded bolero that came off to leave the gown strapless for the evening.
- Lauren wore a classic ball gown with a fitted square neckline, lace and beaded embellishment, and a full skirt cascading into a long train.
- Vanessa chose one fabric and one colour: smooth silk dupion, with a high-waisted bodice gathered to one side, shoestring straps and a full princess skirt.
- Emma married in Scotland in a royal-blue ball gown of silk Mikado and silk organza in two shades of blue, with a drop-waist bodice and a bustle back.
How is a ball gown skirt held out?
Volume comes from three things working together.
- The bodice. A boned, structured bodice carries the skirt. The skirt is heavy, and if the bodice is not built to hold it, the waist drops and the gown pulls.
- The skirt itself. Fabric is gathered or pleated into the waist. The more fabric, the fuller the skirt.
- What sits underneath. Layers of tulle or net, a petticoat sewn into the gown, or a separate petticoat or hoop. Layers sewn into the gown move with you; a hoop holds a wide, even shape but changes how you sit.
A good ball gown looks full without needing a hoop the size of a doorway. Much of the shape can come from the fabric choice.
Which fabrics work for a ball gown?
| Fabric | How it behaves | The look |
|---|---|---|
| Silk duchess satin | Heavy, smooth, holds a sculpted shape | Formal, luminous, classic |
| Silk Mikado | Crisp and firm, with a subtle sheen | Architectural and clean |
| Silk dupion | Lighter, with a slight texture; soft enough to volumise, firm enough for a bodice | Fresh and simple |
| Silk organza | Sheer, crisp and light | Airy volume, often layered |
| Tulle | Soft and very light | Romantic, floating |
More on each in our guide to wedding dress fabrics.
How heavy is a ball gown, and can you sit and dance in it?
A ball gown is heavier than most silhouettes, and how heavy depends on the fabric and how much of it there is. Thirty metres of duchess satin feels very different from layers of tulle. A well-built bodice spreads the weight around your waist and back so you do not feel it pulling at your shoulders.
Sitting
Before you sit, gather the back of the skirt slightly and sit towards the front of the chair. Let the skirt settle around you. Practise this in a fitting, and in the car you will travel in.
Dancing
For your first dance, a train needs to be bustled or held. If you want to dance for hours, consider a skirt that comes off. Taharna wore a princess ball gown to the church and removed the skirt for the reception. Our guide to detachable skirts explains how.
Bathroom
You will need a helper. Practise with your bridesmaid before the day.
Which venues suit a ball gown?
- Churches and cathedrals: long aisles and high ceilings carry the volume. Lauren married at All Saints Greek Orthodox Church, Belmore, with her reception at Doltone House.
- Ballrooms and grand reception venues: space to move, and floors that suit a train.
- Outdoor settings with a sense of scale: Emma’s gown was designed for mountains and sunsets in Scotland.
A ball gown is harder in small restaurants, on sand, in narrow spaces or in summer heat. If your venue is intimate, an A-line wedding dress gives you a full skirt with less bulk.
Who suits a ball gown?
A full skirt from a fitted waist balances fuller hips and creates a waist. It suits most heights, though a petite bride usually looks best in a skirt scaled to her, without the widest volume. Brides who feel lost in fabric, or who want to move freely all day, may prefer an A-line or a two-in-one. See every silhouette compared in our guide to wedding dress styles.
To design a ball gown with Catherine, book a consultation in our Dulwich Hill atelier.
